Dining like Medieval Royalty, Volterra Restaurants

Volterra is one of the most underrated towns in Tuscany, in my opinion. I say this because, in comparison to other towns like San Gimignano, Montepulciano and Pienza, you never see it highlighted on tourism sites. And the town does deserve praise. Not only for its hilltop location, allowing for some of the best views in Tuscany, all the quaint shops and galleries that make for magnificent shopping, its medieval architecture and the Roman theater dating back 3,000 years, but, also for the delectable and authentic dining Volterra has to offer. 

I’ve had the pleasure of dining in Volterra many times, and it has yet to disappoint. I most recently visited Torre del Porcellino and found it to be amazing. It’s located on one of the side streets tucked into the town. Everything was wonderful, from the wine selection, to the antipasti, followed by primi, secondi and dessert, all of it was note worthy. For antipasti we had the Large Porcellino Cutting Board, wow. The menu says for two people, but there were four of us and it was eye popping big. For dinner I had the beef cheeks stewed In a DOCG Chianti and OMG was that so good. The others at the table had the seafood risotto, pappardelle with wild boar and the Spaghetto “Martelli” with carbonara, it was all delicious. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meals. The service was also on par, so needless to say we would visit it again.

Another favorite ristorante we’ve been to is La Vecchia Lira. Also tucked into the village off one of streets that runs through, the staff is friendly, especially the owner, he’s fun and quirky. They also have a great wine list and a large menu with many options. There were a lot of us, so many meals were ordered, but the one that stuck out most for me was the Florentine steak. Grilled to perfection and flavorful, it was perfect. They have many truffle dishes, seafood dishes and of course pasta, so you will find something for everyone at this special place.

And my last notable mention for this piece is Osteria Fornelli. Located on the side of Volterra that faces one of its breathtaking views, this restaurant seems to also be a local favorite. We started with the Tuscan Platter which was a charcuterie board of local meats and cheeses with accompanying jams and honey. We then ordered the cacio e pepe and rabbit with Vernaccia, Both were delicious! (Full disclosure I love cacio e Pepe and will order it nine times out of ten.) We sat on their patio, so we were graced with the beautiful views throughout entire lunch. 

The drive to Volterra is definitely worth it, there’s just so much to admire. And with a number of restaurants to choose from, all highly rated, make time to stay for a meal. As I mentioned in a previous piece on Volterra, if you’re there on a Saturday night in the summer, the piazza at the entrance of the village has a live jazz band playing. There’s a bar located where the band plays allowing you to grab a table and drinks and enjoy the music, the people and the night glow.

Torre del Porcellino: https://www.torredelporcellino.it/

La Vecchia Lira: https://www.vecchialira.com/

Osteria Fornelli: https://www.nuovaosteriafornelli.it/volterra/

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  Torre del Porcellino

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  Torre del Picellino

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  La Vecchia Lira